Wood Restoration & Repair in the Bay Area: Bringing Damaged Wood Back to Life

Walk around almost any Bay Area home and you'll find wood everywhere: deck boards and railings, exterior trim and fascia, window sills and casings, door frames, porch columns, garage door trim, fences, and siding. Wood adds warmth, character, and value to your home—until weather, moisture, insects, and time take their toll.

Peeling paint that exposes bare wood underneath. Soft, spongy boards on your deck. Cracked or rotted window sills that leak water into the walls. Fascia boards sagging away from the roofline. Fence pickets split and weathered gray. Door trim so dry and brittle it cracks when you try to repaint it. These aren't just cosmetic problems—they're warning signs that your wood is deteriorating and needs attention before the damage spreads and repair costs multiply.

Here's the good news: most wood damage can be repaired, restored, or replaced without tearing apart your entire home. Skilled carpentry, proper moisture management, and the right coatings can bring damaged wood back to life and protect it for years to come. At Lamorinda Painting, we've restored thousands of wood surfaces across Lafayette, Walnut Creek, Orinda, and throughout Contra Costa County. We handle everything from small trim repairs to complete deck restorations, always preparing the wood properly and protecting it with premium paints or stains designed for Bay Area weather.

Whether you're preparing to paint your home's exterior, restoring a weathered deck, replacing rotted trim before listing your house for sale, or just maintaining the wood surfaces you already have, we'll assess the damage honestly, repair or replace what's needed, and protect your investment with durable finishes that stand up to sun, rain, and coastal moisture.

Why Wood Restoration Matters in Bay Area Homes

Wood is one of the most beautiful and versatile building materials, but it's also vulnerable to moisture, UV radiation, temperature swings, and biological decay. Here's why addressing wood damage promptly saves you money and protects your home.

Small wood problems become structural issues

A small crack in a window sill doesn't seem urgent—until water seeps through it during the next rainstorm and saturates the framing behind the drywall. A single soft spot on a deck board seems minor—until you step through it or discover that the moisture has spread to the joists underneath, requiring structural repairs that cost thousands.

Wood damage rarely stays isolated. Water finds its way into cracks, checks, and open grain. It spreads along the wood fibers, softening adjacent areas and creating conditions for rot fungi to thrive. In Bay Area coastal climates like Richmond, El Cerrito, and Hercules, high humidity accelerates this process. In inland areas like Antioch, Brentwood, and Oakley, intense summer sun and temperature swings cause wood to crack and check, opening pathways for moisture intrusion.

We've seen window sill rot spread into wall studs, requiring drywall removal and framing replacement. We've seen fascia rot extend into rafter tails, necessitating structural repairs that could have been avoided with early intervention. Catching wood damage early and repairing it properly prevents these expensive escalations.

Proper wood restoration is more than just painting over problems

Many homeowners—and unfortunately some contractors—treat wood damage as a cosmetic issue. They scrape off the loose paint, slap on a fresh coat, and call it done. Six months later, the paint is peeling again and the wood underneath is worse than before.

Effective wood restoration addresses the root cause of the damage: moisture intrusion, UV degradation, lack of protective coating, or structural movement. We identify why the wood failed, fix the underlying problem, repair or replace the damaged material, and then apply the appropriate coating system to prevent recurrence.

For exterior trim, this might mean replacing rotted sections, priming all bare wood with an oil-based stain-blocking primer, caulking all joints to seal out moisture, and applying two coats of high-quality acrylic latex paint designed for wood surfaces. For decks, it means cleaning the wood thoroughly, sanding away damaged fibers, replacing unsalvageable boards, and applying a penetrating stain or sealer that protects against UV and moisture without trapping water inside the wood.

Shortcuts don't work. We've been called in to fix countless "repairs" where someone painted over rotten wood or applied deck stain to dirty, weathered surfaces. These failures waste your money and leave the wood more vulnerable than before.

Bay Area weather is hard on wood

The Bay Area's Mediterranean climate—wet winters, dry summers, coastal fog, intense inland sun—creates challenging conditions for exterior wood. Wood absorbs moisture during rainy months, then dries and shrinks during summer. This expansion and contraction cycle stresses the wood fibers, opens cracks, and breaks down protective coatings.

Coastal areas experience persistent moisture from fog and marine air, which keeps wood damp and creates ideal conditions for mold, mildew, and decay fungi. Inland valleys see temperature swings of 40-50 degrees between day and night during summer, causing wood to expand and contract dramatically. UV radiation is intense across the entire region, breaking down lignin in the wood surface and causing graying and surface degradation.

Different wood species respond differently to these conditions. Redwood and cedar have natural rot resistance and dimensional stability, making them excellent choices for decks and siding in Bay Area climates—but they still need protection from UV and moisture. Douglas fir and pine, common in trim and framing, are more vulnerable to moisture and rot, requiring diligent maintenance and high-quality coatings.

We choose repair materials and coating systems based on your specific location, the wood species, and the exposure conditions. A deck in the foggy hills of Orinda needs different treatment than a deck in the sunny, dry climate of San Ramon.

Common Wood Damage We Repair in Contra Costa County

Every home has its own wood maintenance challenges, but most damage falls into a few common categories. Here's what we see most often and how we address each type.

Dry rot and moisture damage

Dry rot is a misnomer—wood rot is always caused by moisture, not dryness. When wood stays wet or damp for extended periods, decay fungi colonize the wood fibers, breaking down the cellulose and lignin that give wood its strength. The result is soft, spongy, crumbly wood that has lost its structural integrity.

We find dry rot most commonly in:

• Window sills and casings: where water collects on horizontal surfaces or leaks through failed caulking
• Fascia boards: where clogged gutters overflow and saturate the wood
• Deck boards and joists: where standing water or lack of ventilation keeps the wood damp
• Door thresholds and trim: where weather stripping has failed or drainage is inadequate
• Porch columns and posts: where the base sits in contact with damp concrete or soil
• Fence posts: where the below-grade portion has rotted from ground contact

The fix depends on the extent of damage. Small areas of surface rot can sometimes be scraped out, treated with wood hardener or epoxy filler, and painted. Larger areas require cutting out the rotted section and splicing in new wood. Structural elements that have lost integrity must be replaced entirely.

We don't patch over rot—we remove it completely, back to solid wood. We identify and fix the moisture source. We treat the area with borate-based preservatives to prevent recurrence. Then we prime and paint with moisture-resistant coatings.

In older Bay Area homes, especially in Lafayette, Moraga, and Danville, we often find rot hidden behind years of paint buildup. We probe suspected areas carefully during inspections to catch hidden damage before it becomes a structural problem.

Cracked, split, and checked wood

Wood cracks as it dries and shrinks. Surface checks (small cracks along the grain) are common in exterior wood and usually aren't structural concerns, but deep splits that extend through the board can compromise strength and allow water penetration.

We see checking and splitting most often on:

• Deck boards: especially wide boards in full sun
• Fence pickets and rails: exposed to weather on both sides
• Exterior trim: particularly vertical boards that expand and contract with moisture cycles
• Handrails and caps: horizontal surfaces that take direct sun and rain

For minor surface checks, we fill them with flexible exterior caulk or wood filler, sand smooth, and paint or stain. For deep splits or cracks that affect structural integrity, we replace the board.

Prevention is key. Priming all six sides of new wood before installation (including ends and edges) reduces moisture absorption and minimizes checking. Choosing narrower deck boards (4-inch or 5-inch instead of 6-inch) reduces the stress from expansion and contraction. Using kiln-dried lumber instead of green lumber minimizes shrinkage after installation.

Peeling, blistering, and failing paint

When paint fails on wood, it's usually not the paint's fault—it's a symptom of moisture problems, inadequate surface prep, or the wrong coating system for the substrate.

Paint peels when:

• Moisture escapes through the wood from inside the wall (common in bathrooms and kitchens without proper ventilation)
• The wood wasn't properly primed before painting
• Paint was applied over dirty, weathered, or damp wood
• Incompatible coatings were layered (oil over latex without proper prep, or vice versa)

Paint blisters when:

• The wood surface heats up in direct sun right after painting, causing solvents to vaporize and bubble under the paint film
• Moisture is trapped under the paint layer and vaporizes when heated

We scrape away all loose and peeling paint, sand the edges smooth, identify and address moisture sources, prime bare wood properly, and repaint with high-quality acrylic latex paint designed for wood exteriors. For severe paint failure over large areas, we sometimes strip the wood back to bare and start fresh with a complete coating system.

In homes with chronic paint peeling on specific areas—like south-facing trim in Walnut Creek or Concord—we investigate for moisture intrusion, missing or damaged flashing, inadequate ventilation, or other underlying causes before repainting.

Weathered, gray, and UV-damaged wood

Unfinished or poorly maintained wood exposed to sun and weather turns gray as UV radiation breaks down the lignin near the surface. This creates a thin layer of degraded, loose fibers that won't hold paint or stain.

Weathered wood is common on:

• Decks: especially those that haven't been cleaned and sealed regularly
• Fences: particularly those left unfinished or with failed stain
• Cedar and redwood siding: beautiful when maintained, gray and furry when neglected

The fix: We clean the wood with a deck cleaner or brightener to remove dirt, mildew, and gray fibers. We sand or power-wash to remove loose material and open the grain for stain penetration. We apply a penetrating stain or sealer that protects against UV and moisture while allowing the wood to breathe.

For decks, we often recommend a semi-transparent or solid stain rather than clear sealer. Clear sealers offer minimal UV protection and require reapplication every 1-2 years. Quality stains last 3-5 years and provide much better protection.

Insect damage (termites, carpenter ants, powder post beetles)

Insects can cause significant wood damage, though in the Bay Area, moisture-related rot is more common than insect damage in most residential applications.

We find termite damage most often in:

• Sill plates and floor joists: especially in crawl spaces with moisture issues
• Deck posts and joists: where wood contacts soil or concrete
• Fascia and trim: near roof leaks or gutter overflow

When we discover active insect infestations, we recommend coordinating with a licensed pest control company for treatment before proceeding with repairs. Once the infestation is eliminated, we remove and replace damaged wood and treat new wood with borate preservatives to discourage future colonization.

Damaged or deteriorated deck structures

Decks take a beating from weather, foot traffic, and furniture. We handle all types of deck repairs:

• Replacing rotted or split deck boards
• Reinforcing or replacing damaged joists and beams
• Rebuilding failing railings and balusters
• Repairing or replacing posts and footings
• Fixing loose or corroded fasteners and hardware

For decks with widespread damage, we sometimes recommend partial or complete rebuilding rather than patching. A deck with 30-40% failed boards, rotted joists, and loose railings isn't worth patching—it's time for a rebuild with modern materials and updated code-compliant construction.

We're honest about the economics. If repair costs approach 60-70% of replacement cost, we'll discuss the pros and cons of each approach so you can make an informed decision.

Step-by-Step: How We Restore and Protect Wood Surfaces

Our wood restoration process is designed to address damage completely, prepare surfaces properly, and apply protective coatings that last.

Step 1 – Inspection and assessment

We start by inspecting all wood surfaces carefully. We're looking for:

• Soft spots, discoloration, or crumbling that indicate rot
• Cracks, splits, or checks that penetrate deep into the wood
• Peeling, blistering, or failing paint or stain
• Loose or missing caulking at joints and seams
• Signs of moisture intrusion or poor drainage
• Insect damage or active infestations

We probe suspected areas with an awl or screwdriver to check for hidden rot. We check for proper flashing around windows and doors. We look at drainage patterns, gutter condition, and ventilation.

We document everything we find and discuss options with you: repair vs. replace, scope of work, materials choices, and coating systems. We're transparent about what can be saved and what needs replacement.

Step 2 – Removing damaged wood

For rotted or severely damaged wood, we cut out the affected sections back to solid, sound material. We don't leave any soft or questionable wood in place—it will continue to deteriorate and compromise the repair.

We use clean, square cuts to create openings for patches or replacement pieces. We protect adjacent surfaces and interiors from dust and debris. If we're cutting into structural members like joists or beams, we install temporary supports to maintain structural integrity during the repair.

We bag and remove all damaged wood from the site. Rotted wood can harbor fungi spores and shouldn't be left piled near your home.

Step 3 – Treating and preparing the repair area

Before installing new wood, we treat the area with borate-based wood preservatives. These products penetrate the wood and prevent future rot and insect damage. We apply them to all cut ends, edges, and surfaces that will be hidden after repair.

We check that the area is dry and free of active moisture. We identify and fix any moisture sources—leaking gutters, missing flashing, inadequate drainage, poor ventilation—before proceeding. Repairing wood without fixing the moisture problem guarantees the repair will fail.

Step 4 – Installing replacement wood

We use the right wood species for each application:

• Redwood or cedar for deck boards, railings, and siding where rot resistance and stability are critical
• Primed finger-joint pine or poplar for trim and fascia where paintability and stability matter more than natural rot resistance
• Pressure-treated lumber for structural elements like joists and posts that need maximum rot and insect resistance
• Matching species for repairs where we're splicing into existing wood

We cut and fit replacement pieces precisely, ensuring tight joints and proper alignment. We pre-prime all surfaces—including ends and edges—before installation to seal the wood and prevent moisture absorption.

We fasten with appropriate hardware: stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized screws and nails that won't rust and stain the wood. We countersink fasteners slightly and fill the holes with wood filler for a smooth finish.

Step 5 – Caulking and sealing joints

Proper caulking is one of the most important steps in wood restoration. Water intrusion through failed joints is a leading cause of wood rot and paint failure.

We caulk:

• Joints between trim boards
• Gaps between trim and siding
• Seams around windows and doors
• Joints between horizontal and vertical surfaces
• Cracks and checks in solid wood

We use high-quality acrylic latex or hybrid polymer caulks designed for exterior use. These products remain flexible as the wood expands and contracts, preventing cracks and gaps from reopening.

We don't caulk the bottom edge of horizontal trim boards—these need to drain freely. We also leave weep holes in exterior door thresholds and window sills to allow water to escape.

Step 6 – Sanding and surface preparation

We sand all wood surfaces to be painted or stained:

• Feathering the edges of old paint to create smooth transitions
• Removing weathered, gray surface fibers from bare or stained wood
• Smoothing wood filler and epoxy repairs
• Creating a uniform surface texture for coating adhesion

We use appropriate grit sandpaper for each task—coarser grits (60-80) for removing paint and shaping repairs, medium grits (100-120) for general smoothing, and fine grits (150-180) for final prep before painting.

For decks and large flat surfaces, we use power sanders or floor sanders for efficiency. For trim and detailed work, we sand by hand to avoid damaging edges and profiles.

We vacuum and wipe down all surfaces after sanding to remove dust. Dust contamination causes adhesion problems and visible particles in the finish.

Step 7 – Priming bare wood

Bare wood must be primed before painting. Primer serves multiple critical functions:

• Seals the wood to prevent moisture absorption and tannin bleed-through
• Creates a bonding layer between the wood and topcoat
• Fills minor surface imperfections for a smoother finish
• Prevents the topcoat from soaking into the wood unevenly

We use oil-based or acrylic stain-blocking primers for most exterior wood. Oil-based primers penetrate deeply, seal effectively, and prevent tannins in redwood, cedar, and fir from bleeding through the topcoat. Acrylic primers are easier to clean up, dry faster, and work well on properly prepared surfaces.

We prime all surfaces, edges, and ends—not just the visible faces. The end grain of wood is especially porous and absorbs moisture readily, so thorough end-priming is critical for long-term protection.

For decks and other surfaces that will be stained rather than painted, we skip primer and apply the stain directly to clean, sanded wood.

Step 8 – Applying finish coats

For painted wood, we apply two coats of high-quality 100% acrylic latex paint. Acrylic paints are flexible, breathable, and resistant to UV degradation, mildew, and moisture. They expand and contract with the wood, preventing cracking and peeling.

We use appropriate sheens for each application:

• Satin or semi-gloss for trim, doors, and railings (easier to clean, more durable)
• Satin or flat for siding (less reflective, hides surface imperfections)

For stained wood like decks, fences, and natural siding, we apply penetrating oil-based or water-based stains. We prefer semi-transparent or solid stains over clear sealers for most applications—they provide far better UV protection and last 3-5 years instead of 1-2 years.

We apply stains with brushes, rollers, or sprayers depending on the surface. We back-brush or back-roll to ensure even penetration and avoid puddles or runs. We apply stain liberally but don't let it pool—excess stain that doesn't penetrate creates a sticky surface that attracts dirt.

Step 9 – Final inspection and cleanup

We inspect all work under natural light, checking for:

• Complete coverage with no missed spots or thin areas
• Smooth, uniform finish with no runs, sags, or brush marks
• Proper caulking at all joints
• Clean edges and trim lines

We remove all drop cloths, protective coverings, and masking. We clean tools and dispose of all materials properly. We leave your property clean and your wood beautifully restored and protected.

Common Wood Restoration Mistakes (and How We Avoid Them)

Wood restoration requires skill, patience, and the right materials. Here are the most common mistakes we see—and how we do it right.

Painting or staining over rotted or damaged wood

This is the number one mistake: covering up problems instead of fixing them. Rotted wood continues to deteriorate under fresh paint. It doesn't regain strength or stop absorbing moisture. Within months, the paint peels and the wood is worse than before.

We remove all rotted wood completely. We repair or replace damaged sections. We treat the area to prevent recurrence. Only then do we prime and paint. This approach costs more up front but saves you from repeated failures and escalating damage.

Failing to prime bare wood before painting

Bare wood must be primed. Paint applied directly to bare wood soaks in unevenly, leaves the wood vulnerable to moisture absorption, and fails to block tannins and extractives that cause staining.

We prime all bare wood—including cut edges, ends, and back faces—with quality stain-blocking primer before applying finish coats. This single step dramatically improves paint adhesion and longevity.

Using the wrong materials for the environment

Not all wood products and coatings perform equally in different climates. Pressure-treated lumber rated for ground contact is essential for posts and joists near soil. Redwood and cedar offer natural rot resistance for above-grade decking and trim. Oil-based primers work better than latex on high-tannin woods like redwood and cedar.

We choose materials based on your specific location, exposure conditions, and the wood's function. Coastal homes get different treatment than inland homes. Shaded north-facing trim gets different products than sun-blasted south-facing trim.

Skipping moisture source identification and repair

Repairing wood without fixing the reason it rotted in the first place is throwing money away. If a window sill rotted because the flashing is missing or the caulking failed, replacing the sill without addressing the flashing and caulking means the new sill will rot too.

We always ask: Why did this wood fail? We inspect for roof leaks, gutter problems, poor drainage, missing or damaged flashing, failed caulking, and inadequate ventilation. We fix these underlying issues as part of the restoration.

Inadequate surface preparation before staining decks

The most common deck staining failure we see: staining over dirty, weathered, or previously coated wood without proper prep. Stain applied to contaminated surfaces doesn't penetrate properly, peels prematurely, and looks blotchy and uneven.

We clean decks thoroughly with deck cleaner to remove dirt, mildew, and gray fibers. We sand or power-wash to open the grain. We allow the wood to dry completely before staining. We apply stain to clean, bare wood for maximum penetration and longevity.

Over-sanding or power-washing too aggressively

Aggressive power-washing or sanding can damage wood fibers, raise the grain excessively, and create a fuzzy surface that doesn't hold coatings well. We've seen decks that were power-washed so hard that the soft early-wood grain was eroded away, leaving ridges of harder late-wood.

We use controlled techniques: appropriate pressure settings for power-washing (500-1200 PSI for wood), proper grit sandpaper, and careful sanding that smooths without gouging. We know when to stop.

Applying coatings in poor weather conditions

Painting or staining wood when it's too hot, too cold, too humid, or too wet leads to coating failure. Paint applied in direct sun blisters and dries too fast, preventing proper leveling. Stain applied to damp wood traps moisture and causes peeling. Coatings applied below 50°F don't cure properly.

We follow manufacturer guidelines for temperature, humidity, and substrate moisture content. We avoid painting or staining in direct sun or during the heat of the day. We wait for ideal conditions—typically mild temperatures, low humidity, and dry wood—to ensure proper curing and long-term performance.

How Much Does Wood Restoration Cost in the Bay Area?

Wood restoration costs vary widely based on the extent of damage, accessibility, materials, and whether you're repairing, replacing, or restoring. Here's what affects pricing.

What drives wood restoration costs

Extent of damage: Minor trim repairs cost far less than structural replacements. A single rotted window sill might run $200-$400 to repair. Replacing rotted fascia along an entire roofline can cost several thousand dollars. A deck with widespread rot requiring joist and board replacement can run $10,000 or more.

Accessibility: Ground-level work is cheaper than work requiring ladders, scaffolding, or lifts. Second-story trim repairs take longer to set up and execute safely.

Materials: Redwood and cedar cost significantly more than standard pine or fir. Custom-milled trim to match historic profiles costs more than stock lumber. Specialty fasteners, hardware, and coatings add to material costs.

Labor intensity: Detailed carpentry work—splicing in repairs, matching existing profiles, intricate fitting—takes time and skill. Simple board replacement is faster and cheaper than complex structural repairs.

Coating requirements: Priming and painting restored wood adds labor and material costs. Multi-coat staining systems for large decks or fences involve significant additional work beyond the repair itself.

Related work: Often wood restoration uncovers additional issues. We might find rot that extends further than visible, inadequate flashing that needs replacement, or structural issues that require engineering or permits.

Typical Bay Area wood restoration price ranges

For small trim repairs—individual window sills, door trim sections, small fascia patches—expect to pay $200-$600 per repair, including materials, labor, priming, and painting to match.

For medium projects—multiple trim repairs, partial deck board replacement, fence section rebuilds—costs typically range from $800 to $2,500 depending on scope and materials.

For large projects—complete deck restoration, whole-house fascia replacement, extensive siding repairs—costs run from $3,000 to $15,000 or more depending on size, materials, and complexity.

Deck restoration specifically: A typical 12x16 foot deck cleaning, sanding, minor board replacement, and staining might run $1,500-$3,000. A complete deck rebuild with new boards, railings, and structural repairs can easily cost $8,000-$20,000 depending on size, materials, and design.

Many wood restoration projects are combined with exterior painting. If we're already painting your home in Pleasant Hill or Martinez, addressing trim repairs and wood damage as part of the prep work often costs less than scheduling a separate visit.

How to get an accurate estimate

Photos help for preliminary estimates, but wood damage often hides beneath paint or becomes apparent only during hands-on inspection. We recommend an in-home visit for firm quotes.

We'll inspect all wood surfaces, probe suspected damage areas, assess underlying moisture issues, and provide a detailed estimate breaking down repairs, materials, and coating work. We're transparent about what we find and what options you have.

We offer free estimates throughout Lafayette, Orinda, Moraga, Walnut Creek, and the surrounding East Bay. Contact us to schedule an inspection and quote.

Why Lamorinda Painting Is a Top Choice for Wood Restoration in Contra Costa County

We've restored wood on hundreds of Bay Area homes, from historic properties in Lafayette to newer homes in San Ramon. Here's what sets us apart.

We're skilled carpenters, not just painters

Wood restoration requires carpentry skills: accurate cutting, precise fitting, structural understanding, and material knowledge. Our crew has extensive experience with wood repairs, replacements, and restoration. We can splice in trim sections that match existing profiles, rebuild deck railings to code, replace rotted fascia without damaging the roof edge, and handle structural repairs when needed.

We're not a painting-only company that farms out carpentry to subcontractors. We handle the entire process in-house, ensuring quality control and seamless coordination between repair and finishing work.

We identify and fix underlying problems

We don't just patch symptoms—we diagnose and address root causes. If wood is rotting, we find out why and fix the moisture source. If paint is peeling, we identify the adhesion or moisture issue and correct it. If a deck is deteriorating prematurely, we assess drainage, ventilation, and coating system failures.

This comprehensive approach means our repairs last. We'd rather have an honest conversation about underlying issues than leave you with a repair that fails in a year.

We use quality materials and proven coating systems

We source materials from local lumber suppliers who stock quality grades and species. We use premium primers and paints from major manufacturers—products with proven track records in Bay Area climates. We choose stains and sealers based on UV protection, moisture resistance, and longevity, not just price.

We've tested different products over years of projects across varying climates and exposures. We know what works on a foggy coastal deck in Hercules vs. a sun-blasted deck in Concord. We recommend based on performance, not convenience.

We combine restoration with complete painting services

Most wood restoration projects lead to painting. We offer full exterior painting services across Danville, Clayton, Pinole, Richmond, and throughout Contra Costa County. We handle all prep work—including wood repair, caulking, sanding, and priming—then apply premium paints that look beautiful and protect your home for years.

By bundling wood restoration and painting with one contractor, you save time, avoid coordination headaches, and often save money compared to hiring separate carpenters and painters.

We're licensed, insured, and local

Lamorinda Painting is a fully licensed and insured painting and carpentry contractor based in Lafayette, CA. We carry general liability and workers' compensation coverage. We're an established local business with deep roots in the Lamorinda community and throughout the East Bay.

We live and work in the neighborhoods we serve. We care about our reputation and our relationships with clients. Many customers call us back year after year for maintenance, repairs, and new projects.

FAQs About Wood Restoration in the Bay Area

How can I tell if wood is rotted or just weathered? Weathered wood looks gray and feels rough but remains firm and solid. Rotted wood feels soft, spongy, or crumbly when you press on it with a screwdriver or awl. If the tool sinks into the wood easily or the wood breaks apart, it's rotted and needs replacement. Surface weathering can be sanded or cleaned and then stained. Rot must be cut out and replaced.

Can rotted wood be repaired, or does it always need replacement? Small areas of surface rot—less than an inch deep and not affecting structural integrity—can sometimes be scraped out, treated with wood hardener or epoxy filler, and painted. Larger or deeper rot, or any rot in structural members, requires cutting out the damaged wood and replacing it with new material. We never leave rotted wood in place—it continues to deteriorate and spreads to adjacent areas.

How often should I stain or seal my deck? It depends on the product and exposure. Clear sealers typically need reapplication every 1-2 years. Semi-transparent stains last 2-4 years. Solid stains can last 4-6 years in protected areas. Decks in full sun, high foot traffic, or harsh weather need more frequent maintenance than shaded, low-use decks. The best indicator is water absorption—when water no longer beads on the surface, it's time to clean and reseal.

Should I use oil-based or water-based stain for my deck? Both have pros and cons. Oil-based stains penetrate deeply, enhance wood grain, and often last longer, but they take longer to dry and have stronger odors. Water-based stains dry faster, have low odor, and are easier to clean up, but they don't penetrate as deeply. We recommend based on your wood type, exposure, and maintenance preferences. For most Bay Area decks, quality water-based semi-transparent stains offer the best balance of performance and convenience.

What's the difference between a stain and a sealer? Sealers are clear or lightly tinted products that protect wood from moisture and UV but don't significantly change the color. They require frequent reapplication (every 1-2 years) because they offer minimal UV protection. Stains contain pigments that block UV radiation, protecting the wood and extending the coating life to 3-5 years or more. Semi-transparent stains let the wood grain show through. Solid stains cover like paint but still penetrate and breathe, unlike film-forming paints.

Can you match existing trim profiles when replacing damaged sections? In most cases, yes. For standard trim profiles available at lumber yards, we can source matching material. For custom or historic profiles, we can have matching trim milled at a local millwork shop or shape it ourselves using routers and shapers. Matching historic trim adds to material costs but ensures a seamless repair that preserves your home's character.

How long does wood restoration take? Small trim repairs can often be completed in a day or two. Medium projects like partial deck restorations take 3-5 days. Large projects—complete deck rebuilds, whole-house fascia replacement, extensive trim work—can take 1-2 weeks or more depending on scope, weather, and drying times for coatings.

Do I need to remove old stain before restaining my deck? It depends. If the old stain is in good condition—not peeling, flaking, or worn through to bare wood—you can often clean the deck thoroughly and apply a maintenance coat of compatible stain. If the old stain is failing, peeling, or heavily weathered, it should be stripped back to bare wood before restaining. We assess the condition during our estimate and recommend the appropriate prep method.

Ready to Restore Your Home's Wood Surfaces?

Whether you're dealing with rotted trim, a weathered deck, peeling paint on wood siding, or damaged fencing, Lamorinda Painting has the carpentry skills, materials knowledge, and finishing expertise to restore your wood surfaces to beautiful, durable condition. We serve homeowners throughout Lafayette, Moraga, Orinda, Walnut Creek, Concord, Pleasant Hill, Martinez, Danville, San Ramon, Clayton, El Cerrito, Richmond, Hercules, Pinole, San Pablo, Antioch, Brentwood, Oakley, and across Contra Costa County.

Our wood restoration services include:

• Dry rot repair and replacement
• Deck cleaning, repair, and refinishing
• Exterior trim and fascia repair
• Window and door trim restoration
• Fence repair and staining
• Railing and baluster replacement
• Porch and column restoration
• Surface preparation and protective coatings

We're fully licensed and insured, we use quality materials and proven techniques, and we complete every project with thorough cleanup. Your satisfaction is our top priority, and our estimates are always free.

Contact Lamorinda Painting today for a free quote on your wood restoration project. Call us, fill out our online form, or send us photos of the damaged wood for a preliminary assessment. Let's protect your investment and bring your wood surfaces back to life.

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        "text": "Small areas of surface rot can sometimes be scraped out, treated with wood hardener, and painted. Larger or deeper rot, or any rot in structural members, requires cutting out the damaged wood and replacing it with new material."
      }
    }
  ]
}

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