Drywall Repair & Painting in the Bay Area: Seamless Fixes That Match Your Walls Perfectly

Walk into almost any Bay Area home built in the last 50 years and you'll find drywall on nearly every interior surface. It's affordable, versatile, and takes paint beautifully—until it doesn't. A misplaced door handle. Kids roughhousing. Heavy picture frames pulled down. Water damage from a roof leak or plumbing issue. Settling cracks that appear along seams and corners. Suddenly, your smooth walls look damaged, dated, or just plain messy.

Here's the good news: professional drywall repair and painting can make those problem spots disappear completely. When done right, you won't be able to tell where the damage was. The patch blends seamlessly with the surrounding wall texture, the primer seals everything properly, and the final paint coat matches your existing color so well that the repair becomes invisible.

At Lamorinda Painting, we've fixed thousands of drywall issues across Lafayette, Walnut Creek, Concord, and throughout Contra Costa County. We handle everything from small nail holes to large water-damaged sections, always leaving your walls looking factory-smooth and ready for years of trouble-free service. Whether you're preparing to sell, fixing up after a renovation, or just tired of looking at that ugly hole behind the door, we'll get your walls back to perfect condition with our high-quality repair and painting services.

Why Professional Drywall Repair Matters in Bay Area Homes

Drywall damage isn't just an eyesore—it's a sign that your walls need attention before the problem gets worse or affects your home's value.

Small problems grow into bigger ones

A hairline crack along a ceiling seam might seem harmless, but it often signals ongoing movement in your home's frame. Bay Area homes experience seasonal temperature swings and seismic settling that can widen cracks over time. A small hole from a removed towel bar can expose the drywall core to moisture from bathroom humidity, causing the gypsum to crumble and the paper face to peel. What starts as a quarter-size ding can turn into a softball-size mess if water gets behind it.

Professional repair stops this progression. We assess the underlying cause, not just the visible damage. If a crack keeps reappearing, we identify the structural movement and use flexible joint compound or mesh tape to accommodate it. If water damage is present, we check for active leaks and replace any compromised drywall before moisture spreads to studs or insulation.

Texture matching requires experience and the right materials

Here's where DIY drywall repair often falls short: matching the existing wall texture. Most Bay Area homes have one of several common finishes—smooth, orange peel, knockdown, skip trowel, or light popcorn (especially in older Orinda and Moraga homes built in the 1960s and 70s). Each texture requires specific tools, techniques, and materials to replicate convincingly.

Orange peel texture, common in newer tract homes across Pleasant Hill and San Ramon, is created with a hopper gun at a precise air pressure and distance. Knockdown texture involves applying joint compound, letting it set partially, then knocking down the peaks with a trowel at just the right moisture level. Get the timing or technique wrong and your patch will stand out like a sore thumb under the right lighting.

We carry texture hoppers, knockdown trowels, sponges, and spray rigs to match any finish we encounter. More importantly, we practice on scrap drywall or inconspicuous areas first, dialing in the exact pattern before committing to the visible repair. This attention to detail is what makes our patches disappear completely after the final coat of paint.

Proper repair saves money compared to whole-room repaints

Many homeowners assume that patching drywall means repainting the entire room. While we often recommend painting a full wall from corner to corner for the best color match, a skilled repair-and-blend job can frequently save you from painting three other walls you didn't want to touch.

The key is using the right primer and paint system. We start with a stain-blocking primer over the fresh joint compound to seal it and create a uniform surface. Then we feather out the paint edges so there's no visible line between old and new. In rooms with good natural light and relatively new paint, this approach works beautifully and costs a fraction of a whole-room repaint.

For older paint or walls with significant sun fading, we'll be honest: blending new paint into ten-year-old paint rarely looks perfect. In those cases, we'll recommend painting the full wall or even the whole room to get a true factory finish. We'll never push you into more work than necessary, but we won't leave you with a repair that draws the eye every time you walk by.

Common Types of Drywall Damage We Fix in Contra Costa County

Every home is different, but most drywall damage falls into a few common categories. Here's what we see most often and how we approach each type.

Nail pops and screw pops

Over time, wood studs dry out and shrink slightly, or settling causes fasteners to work their way out through the drywall surface. You'll see small circular bumps or cracks radiating from the fastener point. This is especially common in newer homes across Brentwood, Antioch, and Oakley built in the last 20 years as framing lumber continues to dry.

The fix: We drive the popped fastener back below the surface or remove it entirely, then add a new screw slightly offset from the original. We cover the area with joint compound, feather it smooth, sand, prime, and paint. For homes with chronic popping (often a sign of green lumber or improper initial installation), we sometimes add extra fasteners along the stud line to secure the drywall more firmly.

Small to medium holes (doorknob strikes, anchors, picture hangers)

These are the bread and butter of drywall repair. A door handle punched through. A hollow-wall anchor pulled out. A heavy shelf that ripped its mounting hardware free. Most of these holes are fist-sized or smaller.

For holes smaller than a quarter, we simply fill with lightweight spackle, sand smooth, and paint. For anything larger, we use a California patch (also called a hot patch): we cut a rectangular piece of drywall to fit the hole, butter the back edges with joint compound, press it into place, and secure it with compound around the perimeter. Once dry, we tape the seams with fiberglass mesh, apply multiple coats of compound, sand to feather the edges, then prime and paint.

This method creates a strong, permanent repair without needing to cut away large sections of wall or attach backer boards behind the hole. It's fast, clean, and nearly invisible when finished.

Large holes and damaged sections

Sometimes damage is more extensive: a fist through the wall, water damage from a burst pipe, or a section cut out for electrical or plumbing work. For holes larger than six inches or damage that extends behind the visible surface, we cut out the affected area back to the nearest studs, install backer boards or blocking as needed, cut and screw in a new piece of drywall, then tape and finish all seams.

Water damage requires extra attention. We don't just patch over wet or crumbling drywall—that's a recipe for mold and future failure. We trace the moisture source, ensure it's fixed, then cut out all compromised material back to dry, solid drywall. If the damage extends to insulation or framing, we coordinate with other trades to address those issues before closing up the wall.

In Bay Area coastal areas like Richmond, El Cerrito, and Hercules, we sometimes find persistent moisture issues from poor ventilation or exterior water intrusion. We'll always flag these underlying problems so you can address the root cause, not just the symptom.

Ceiling cracks and sags

Ceilings take a lot of stress. Attic insulation piled on top. Roof trusses flexing with temperature swings. In some older homes, ceiling drywall was installed perpendicular to joists without enough fasteners, leading to sagging over time.

We fix ceiling cracks by scraping out loose material, applying fiberglass mesh tape, and building up joint compound in thin layers. For cracks that reappear seasonally, we sometimes use flexible caulk or compound designed to move with the structure. For sagging ceilings, we add screws along the joists to pull the drywall back tight, then skim-coat the surface smooth.

Ceiling work is physically demanding and requires careful attention to avoid creating new problems. Overloading a ceiling with too much compound can cause it to sag further, while rushing the drying process leads to cracking. We take our time, use the right materials, and make sure gravity is on our side before we start troweling.

Texture damage and skim-coat failures

Sometimes the drywall itself is fine, but the texture or skim coat on top has failed. This happens when someone tries to remove wallpaper and tears off the paper face of the drywall, when old popcorn ceiling texture starts delaminating, or when a previous repair was done poorly and the patched area is cracking or peeling.

We skim-coat damaged areas with a thin layer of all-purpose joint compound, creating a new smooth surface. If the surrounding texture is intact, we match it carefully. If large sections are failing, we sometimes recommend texturing or skim-coating the entire wall or ceiling for uniformity.

In homes built before 1980, we always test popcorn or textured ceilings for asbestos before disturbing them. If asbestos is present, we either encapsulate it with paint or coordinate with a licensed abatement contractor for safe removal.

Step-by-Step: How We Repair and Paint Drywall in Your Bay Area Home

Our process is designed to deliver seamless, long-lasting repairs that blend perfectly with your existing walls.

Step 1 – Assessment and preparation

We start by inspecting the damage carefully. Is it just cosmetic, or is there an underlying structural or moisture issue? We check for soft spots, discoloration, or ongoing water intrusion. For ceiling work, we look at the attic side if accessible to understand what's happening behind the surface.

Once we understand the scope, we move furniture away from the work area and lay drop cloths to protect your floors. We cover nearby furniture and doorways with plastic sheeting to contain dust. Drywall sanding creates fine dust that travels, so we set up containment and use HEPA-filtered vacuums whenever possible.

We label and photograph any areas where we're cutting into walls for larger repairs, especially if electrical or plumbing might be present. Safety first.

Step 2 – Cutting out damaged material

For small holes, we cut a clean rectangle around the damage using a drywall saw or utility knife. Clean edges make for stronger, neater patches. We remove any loose or crumbling material and vacuum out dust and debris.

For larger sections, we mark cut lines with a straightedge and cut back to the center of the nearest studs on each side. This gives us solid backing to attach the new drywall. We save the cutout piece if it's useful for measuring, but typically we're starting fresh with new material.

If we encounter mold, water staining, or damaged insulation, we stop and discuss next steps with you. We'll never cover up a problem that needs addressing.

Step 3 – Installing backing and new drywall

For small holes, we use the California patch method: cut a piece of drywall slightly smaller than the hole, apply joint compound around the perimeter of the back side, press it into the hole flush with the wall surface, and hold it in place with compound. No studs or backer boards needed for holes up to about six inches.

For larger repairs, we install wooden backer strips or blocks behind the opening, screw them to existing studs or the back of the drywall, then cut a new piece of drywall to fit precisely. We screw it into the backer strips with drywall screws every 8-12 inches, keeping screws slightly recessed below the surface but not breaking the paper face.

We match the thickness of your existing drywall—usually 1/2 inch for walls and ceilings, sometimes 5/8 inch for ceilings or fire-rated walls. Using the wrong thickness leaves the patch too proud or recessed, making finishing much harder.

Step 4 – Taping and first coat of joint compound

We apply fiberglass mesh tape over all seams and joints, pressing it flat. Mesh tape is self-adhesive and less likely to bubble than paper tape, though we use paper tape with setting-type compound for some large repairs where strength is critical.

We trowel a first coat of all-purpose or lightweight joint compound over the tape and screw holes, pressing it into the mesh and feathering it out 4-6 inches beyond the repair. This coat doesn't need to be perfect—it's mostly about embedding the tape and building up the low spots.

We let it dry completely, typically overnight. Rushing this step leads to cracking and poor adhesion. In humid Bay Area winters, especially near the coast, we sometimes use fans or dehumidifiers to speed drying without forcing it too fast.

Step 5 – Second and third coats

After the first coat is dry, we apply a second coat of joint compound with a wider trowel, feathering the edges out 8-12 inches. This coat starts to flatten and smooth the repair. We let it dry, then lightly sand any ridges or high spots with fine-grit sandpaper (150-220 grit) or a damp sponge.

For most repairs, a third coat is necessary to achieve a truly smooth finish. We feather this final coat even wider, blending it imperceptibly into the surrounding wall. Proper feathering is what makes the repair invisible—there should be no ridge or hump where the compound meets the original surface.

We sand the final coat carefully, checking with a work light held at a low angle to reveal any imperfections. If we spot ridges or valleys, we touch them up with a thin skim coat and sand again.

Step 6 – Texture matching

If your walls or ceilings have texture, we replicate it now. We practice on scrap material or cardboard first to dial in the exact pattern and density.

For orange peel, we load texture material into a hopper gun, adjust the air pressure and nozzle size, and spray in a consistent pattern. For knockdown, we apply joint compound with a trowel or spray it on, let it set for 10-15 minutes, then lightly flatten the peaks with a knockdown blade. For skip trowel or Santa Fe texture, we dab and swirl compound with a trowel or sponge.

Each texture has its own learning curve. We've matched hundreds of different finishes across every type of Bay Area home, from mid-century ranches in Lafayette to new construction townhomes in Danville. The key is patience, the right tools, and a good eye for detail.

Once the texture dries, we lightly sand or knock off any overly sharp peaks so the surface is consistent with the rest of the wall.

Step 7 – Priming the repair

Fresh joint compound is porous and highly absorbent. If you paint directly over it without priming, the patch will show as a dull, flat spot even if you use the same paint. This is called "flashing," and it's one of the telltale signs of amateur drywall work.

We apply a stain-blocking primer specifically designed for new drywall and patches. This seals the compound, evens out the absorption rate, and provides a consistent base for the finish paint. We feather the primer out slightly beyond the compound area to avoid hard lines.

If the repair involved water damage or staining, we use an oil-based or shellac-based stain blocker to prevent bleed-through. Water-based primers alone won't always stop tannins, rust, or smoke stains from reappearing.

Step 8 – Painting to match

Color matching is part science, part art. If you have leftover paint from the original job, we'll use that. If not, we can often match your existing color by eye or with a paint sample taken to the store for computer matching.

We apply at least two coats of paint over the primed repair, feathering and blending the edges so there's no visible line between old and new paint. We backroll or brush the edges to ensure good adhesion and a uniform sheen.

For best results, especially if your paint is more than a few years old or has been exposed to sunlight, we recommend painting the entire wall from corner to corner. This guarantees a perfect match and avoids the challenge of blending into faded or aged paint.

We use the same sheen as your existing paint—flat, eggshell, satin, or semi-gloss. Mixing sheens is a dead giveaway, even if the color is perfect.

Step 9 – Final inspection and cleanup

We inspect the repair under natural light and with a work light at different angles. We're looking for ridges, shadows, texture mismatches, or color variations. If we spot anything, we touch it up before calling the job complete.

We vacuum the area thoroughly, wipe down any surfaces that collected dust, and remove all drop cloths and protective plastic. We haul away all drywall scraps, compound containers, and sanding dust. Our goal is to leave your home spotless, with only the beautifully repaired wall to show for our work.

Common Drywall Repair Mistakes (and How We Avoid Them)

Drywall repair looks simple in theory, but there are plenty of ways to end up with a repair that's obvious, weak, or prone to failure. Here's what we see in poorly executed DIY and contractor work—and how we do it right.

Using the wrong type of joint compound

Not all joint compound is created equal. Lightweight "easy-sand" compound is great for small repairs and final coats because it dries quickly and sands easily. But it's weaker and more prone to cracking than all-purpose or setting-type compound, so it's a poor choice for large patches or structural repairs.

Setting-type compound (also called hot mud or durabond) hardens through a chemical reaction rather than air drying. It's incredibly strong and shrinks very little, making it ideal for deep fills, large holes, and repairs subject to movement. But it sets fast—often within 20 to 90 minutes depending on the formula—and it's harder to sand, so you need to get your trowel work right the first time.

We choose the right compound for each phase of the repair. Setting-type for embedding tape and first coats on large repairs. All-purpose or lightweight for skim coats and feathering. This combination gives us strength where we need it and sandability where we want it.

Many DIYers grab whatever compound is on sale and wonder why their repairs crack or take days to dry. The wrong product wastes time and leads to callbacks.

Skimping on coats or feathering

One thick coat of compound over a seam might fill it, but it won't blend it. The secret to invisible repairs is multiple thin coats, each one feathered wider than the last.

A properly feathered repair transitions gradually from the low point (the seam or hole) to the surrounding wall surface over a distance of 12 to 24 inches. This gentle slope is invisible to the eye and to raking light. A repair that stops abruptly creates a ridge or hump that catches shadows and draws attention.

We're patient with feathering. We apply compound in thin layers with wide trowels, scraping off excess and checking with a straightedge to ensure smooth transitions. We'd rather do four thin coats than two thick ones.

Thick coats also crack as they dry, especially if you use air-drying compound. Thin coats dry evenly and stay put.

Failing to address the root cause

Patching a crack without understanding why it cracked is a waste of time and money. Cracks along seams often indicate truss uplift, foundation settling, or seasonal movement. Holes near doors might point to missing door stops or loose hardware. Water damage always has a source.

Before we patch anything, we ask: Why did this happen? If we can't answer that question, we investigate. We look for leaks, check framing for movement, examine the condition of surrounding materials. If the root cause is still active, we discuss it with you and recommend addressing it before or alongside the cosmetic repair.

A well-executed patch over an active leak or ongoing structural issue will fail again, often worse than before. We'd rather have an honest conversation up front than leave you with a band-aid over a bigger problem.

Sanding before the compound is fully dry

Joint compound needs to dry completely before sanding, or you'll end up with fuzzy, torn edges and a surface that's impossible to smooth. In humid conditions or thick applications, this can take 24 hours or more.

We test dryness by touch and by color—wet compound is darker than dry compound. If there's any give or coolness to the touch, we wait. Trying to sand damp compound clogs the sandpaper, creates divots, and damages the paper face of the drywall.

When we do sand, we use fine-grit paper and light pressure, working in a circular motion to feather edges. We wear dust masks and use pole sanders with vacuum attachments to minimize airborne dust.

Many rushed repairs fail at this step. The contractor sands too soon, tears up the compound, trowels over the mess, and ends up with a lumpy, uneven surface that shows through the paint.

Painting without proper priming

This is the number one reason patches show after painting. Bare joint compound absorbs paint differently than sealed drywall or old paint, creating flat spots or "flashing" even when the color is perfect.

We always prime patches with a high-quality drywall primer or stain-blocking primer. This seals the compound, evens out absorption, and gives the topcoat a uniform base. We feather the primer slightly beyond the compound area to avoid hard lines.

If stains are present—water marks, smoke damage, crayon, or marker—we use an oil-based or shellac-based stain blocker first. These products lock in stains that would otherwise bleed through water-based primers and paints.

A couple dollars' worth of primer saves the headache of repainting the entire repair when the patch shows through.

How Much Does Drywall Repair and Painting Cost in the Bay Area?

Drywall repair costs vary widely based on the size and complexity of the damage, but here's what affects pricing and what you can expect.

What drives the cost of drywall repair

Size and number of repairs: A single nail pop takes 15 minutes and a few cents of compound. A dozen nail pops across a room takes an hour of labor plus setup and materials. A fist-size hole requires cutting, patching, taping, multiple compound coats, sanding, priming, and painting—easily 3-4 hours of work for a perfect finish.

Extent of damage: Surface-level cosmetic damage is cheaper to fix than repairs requiring new drywall, backer boards, or exploratory work to address underlying issues. Water damage that extends behind the visible surface can require cutting out large sections, treating mold, replacing insulation, and coordinating with plumbers or roofers.

Texture matching: Smooth walls are the easiest to patch and blend. Textured walls require extra time and skill to match the pattern convincingly. Complex hand-troweled textures or aged popcorn ceilings can add significantly to labor time.

Ceiling vs. wall: Ceiling repairs are more physically demanding, require scaffolding or tall ladders, and involve fighting gravity during compound application and sanding. Most contractors charge a premium for ceiling work.

Painting requirements: If you already have matching paint and only need the repair primed and spot-painted, costs are minimal. If we need to paint an entire wall or room to blend the repair, painting labor and materials increase the total.

Access and protection: Repairs in occupied homes with furniture, flooring, and belongings to protect take longer to set up and clean up than repairs in empty rooms or new construction. Homes with high ceilings, tight stairwells, or delicate finishes nearby require extra care and time.

Typical Bay Area drywall repair price ranges

For small repairs—nail pops, hairline cracks, minor dings—expect to pay $150-$300 per area or room, including patching, sanding, priming, and spot painting.

For medium repairs—doorknob holes, removed fixtures, damaged sections up to 1-2 square feet—plan on $300-$600 per repair, depending on texture matching and finish painting needs.

For large repairs—water damage, multi-square-foot sections requiring new drywall, extensive ceiling cracks—costs typically range from $600 to $1,500 or more per section, especially if structural issues, mold remediation, or related trades are involved.

Many painting companies, including Lamorinda Painting, offer drywall repair as part of a larger interior painting project. If we're already painting your Walnut Creek living room, fixing a few nail pops and dings as part of the prep work often costs less than scheduling a separate repair-only visit.

For homes preparing to sell or completing insurance-related repairs, we can provide itemized estimates that break down each repair separately for transparency and reimbursement purposes.

How to get an accurate estimate

Photos help. If you can send us clear images of the damage from a few feet away and close up, we can often provide a ballpark estimate over the phone or via email. For larger or more complex jobs, we recommend an in-home visit so we can inspect behind the damage, assess the full scope, and give you a firm quote.

We offer free estimates throughout Lafayette, Orinda, Moraga, and the surrounding East Bay. Contact us with your address and a brief description of the damage, and we'll schedule a time to take a look.

Why Lamorinda Painting Is a Top Choice for Drywall Repair in Contra Costa County

We've repaired thousands of walls and ceilings across the Bay Area, and we've built a reputation for quality, honesty, and seamless results.

We fix it right the first time

Drywall repair is detail work. There's no room for shortcuts if you want the patch to disappear completely. We use the right materials, the right techniques, and the right number of coats to get a factory-smooth finish. We don't rush the drying process, we don't skip sanding, and we don't paint over problems.

We've trained our crew on proper compound application, feathering, texture matching, and dust control. Every repair follows the same careful process, whether it's a single nail pop in a Pleasant Hill bedroom or a full wall replacement after water damage in a Martinez kitchen.

We know Bay Area homes and their quirks

We've worked on homes across Contra Costa County, from 1920s bungalows in Richmond to brand-new construction in San Ramon. We understand the common issues each era and style presents: plaster-over-lath walls in older homes, settling cracks in split-level ranch houses, nail pops in newer tract homes built with green lumber.

We also understand Bay Area climate. Coastal homes deal with higher humidity, which affects drying times and primer selection. Inland homes experience wider temperature swings, which can cause seasonal cracking. We adjust our materials and methods based on your location and home type.

We communicate clearly and respect your time

We show up on time, do the work we promised, and clean up thoroughly before we leave. If we discover something unexpected—active water damage, mold, or structural issues—we stop and talk to you before proceeding. We'll never hide problems or cover them up to finish the job faster.

We provide clear, written estimates before starting any work. If the scope changes, we discuss it with you and get approval before adding costs. No surprises.

We're licensed, insured, and local

Lamorinda Painting is a fully licensed and insured painting contractor based in Lafayette, CA. We carry general liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage for your protection and ours. We're not a fly-by-night handyman operation—we're an established local business with deep roots in the community.

We live and work in the same neighborhoods we serve. We care about our reputation and our relationships with clients. Many of our customers call us back year after year for painting, repairs, and maintenance work, and they refer us to friends and neighbors.

We integrate drywall repair with full painting projects

Drywall repair is often the first step in a larger interior painting project. If your walls have multiple dings, nail pops, or texture damage, it makes sense to fix everything during the prep phase and then paint the whole room for a fresh, uniform finish.

We offer complete interior painting services across Concord, Danville, Clayton, and throughout the Bay Area. We handle all the prep work—including drywall repair, caulking, sanding, and priming—then apply premium paints in the colors you choose. The result is a professional finish that looks and lasts like new.

If you're planning to paint anyway, let us assess your walls and ceilings during the estimate. We'll identify all the repairs needed and include them in the project scope so nothing gets missed.

FAQs About Drywall Repair in the Bay Area

How long does drywall repair take? Small repairs like nail pops or hairline cracks can be completed in a few hours, but most repairs require at least two visits—one to apply the initial coats of compound and one to sand, prime, and paint after everything is dry. Complex repairs involving multiple coats, texture matching, or extensive damage may take 3-5 days from start to finish, mostly due to drying time between coats.

Can you match textured walls and ceilings? Yes. We carry the tools and materials to replicate nearly any drywall texture, from smooth to orange peel to knockdown to hand-troweled finishes. Texture matching requires practice and the right technique, but we've matched hundreds of different patterns across Bay Area homes. We test on scrap material first to dial in the exact look before applying it to your wall or ceiling.

Will the repair be visible after painting? When done correctly, a drywall repair should be completely invisible. Proper feathering, adequate coats of compound, thorough sanding, quality priming, and careful paint blending all contribute to a seamless finish. If your existing paint is old, faded, or in poor condition, we may recommend painting the entire wall or room to ensure a perfect match.

Do I need to repaint the whole room after a repair? Not always. For small repairs in rooms with relatively new, unfaded paint, we can often prime the patch and blend the finish paint so it's unnoticeable. For larger repairs, older paint, or walls with significant sun exposure, painting the full wall or room usually yields the best results. We'll assess your specific situation and give you an honest recommendation.

What if the crack or hole reappears? If a repair fails, it's usually because the underlying cause wasn't addressed. Recurring cracks often indicate ongoing structural movement, and holes that reopen can signal loose fasteners or inadequate backing. We investigate the root cause before patching so you don't end up with the same problem six months later. If movement or settling is unavoidable, we use flexible materials designed to accommodate it.

Can you fix water-damaged drywall? Yes, but only after the water source is fixed and the area has dried completely. We cut out all damaged drywall, inspect for mold and compromised framing, treat or replace affected materials, then install and finish new drywall. We don't patch over wet or moldy drywall—that's a recipe for bigger problems down the road.

How much does drywall repair cost? Small repairs typically run $150-$300, medium repairs (like doorknob holes) cost $300-$600, and large repairs involving new drywall sections range from $600 to $1,500 or more. The exact cost depends on the size, location, texture, and extent of damage. We provide free estimates and can usually give you a ballpark price based on photos or a brief description.

Do you repair plaster walls or just drywall? We repair both. Many older Bay Area homes have plaster-over-lath walls, which require different techniques and materials than modern drywall. Plaster repair involves patching with plaster compound, bonding to the lath, and blending into the harder, denser existing surface. We have experience with both systems and can handle whatever your home has.

Ready to Make Your Walls Look Perfect Again?

Whether you're dealing with a single annoying nail pop or major water damage across a ceiling, Lamorinda Painting has the skills, materials, and experience to restore your drywall to flawless condition. We serve homeowners throughout Lafayette, Moraga, Orinda, Walnut Creek, Concord, Pleasant Hill, Martinez, Danville, San Ramon, Clayton, El Cerrito, Richmond, Hercules, Pinole, San Pablo, Antioch, Brentwood, Oakley, and across Contra Costa County.

Our drywall repair and painting services include:

• Fixing nail pops, screw pops, and small holes
• Repairing medium to large holes and damaged sections
• Patching ceiling cracks and sags
• Matching all texture types (smooth, orange peel, knockdown, skip trowel, popcorn)
• Water damage repair and replacement
• Skim coating and texture repair
• Priming and finish painting to match your existing walls

We're fully licensed and insured, we show up on time, and we leave your home spotless when we're finished. Your satisfaction is our top priority, and our estimates are always free.

Contact Lamorinda Painting today for a free quote on your drywall repair project. Call us, fill out our online form, or send us photos of the damage for a quick estimate. Let's get your walls and ceilings looking factory-fresh again.

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