Wood Siding Painting: Complete Repair, Prime, and Paint Guide for Bay Area Homes

Wood siding offers timeless character and authentic charm that synthetic materials can't replicate. Older homes throughout Lafayette, Orinda, and Moraga feature beautiful clapboard, cedar shakes, and board-and-batten siding that defines Bay Area residential architecture. But wood requires proper maintenance, and painting wood siding successfully demands more preparation and technique than other exterior materials.

We're Lamorinda Painting, a fully licensed and insured painting company based in Lafayette. Since 2003, we've specialized in restoring and painting wood siding on Bay Area homes, and we understand exactly what it takes to achieve results that last a decade or more. In this comprehensive guide, we'll walk you through every step of the wood siding painting process, from inspection and repair through priming and final coating.

Whether you're maintaining a well-preserved Craftsman home or rescuing neglected wood siding, understanding proper techniques prevents the failures we see too often: peeling paint, rotted boards, and moisture damage. Contact us for a free estimate and expert guidance on your wood siding project.

Types of Wood Siding in Bay Area Homes

Understanding your siding type helps you prepare and paint it correctly.

Clapboard/horizontal lap siding

Horizontal lap siding is most common in traditional Bay Area homes, especially Craftsman and Colonial styles. Overlapping boards create a weather barrier that sheds water when properly maintained. Each board's bottom edge remains exposed to weather, making these areas particularly vulnerable to moisture absorption and eventual rot.

The overlap design creates natural lines and shadows that add architectural interest. However, painting requires careful attention to these overlaps, ensuring paint coverage extends fully under each board's upper edge without creating thick buildup that prevents proper closure.

Common materials include cedar, redwood, pine, and fir. Cedar and redwood contain natural oils that resist rot but can bleed through paint if not properly sealed. Pine and fir are more affordable but require more careful moisture management.

Cedar shingle/shake siding

Cedar shingle and shake siding appears commonly on Craftsman bungalows, cottages, and Cape Cod-style homes throughout the East Bay. Individual shingles can be replaced easily compared to board siding, making maintenance more manageable. Unpainted cedar weathers to attractive silver-gray, but painted cedar provides better protection and broader color options.

Shingles have rougher texture than boards, which means they hold paint well but use more material. The dimensional quality of shingle siding creates appealing shadow lines and texture that distinguish these homes visually.

Painting shingled surfaces requires working paint into all the irregular surfaces and overlaps. Spraying followed by back-brushing provides best results, ensuring coverage in all the valleys and overlaps that rolling alone might miss.

Board and batten

Board and batten features vertical boards with narrow strips (battens) covering the seams. This traditional style appears on barns, modern farmhouse designs, and some older utility buildings. The vertical orientation creates different water shedding characteristics than horizontal siding.

Battens create three-dimensional detail that requires careful painting. Paint must seal the joints where battens meet boards while avoiding excessive buildup that creates unsightly ridges.

Vertical siding sheds water differently than horizontal, with less tendency for moisture to collect on horizontal surfaces. However, the bottom edges of boards remain vulnerable where they meet foundation or trim.

T1-11 plywood siding

T1-11 plywood siding was extremely popular in 1970s and 1980s construction throughout the Bay Area. This economical panel siding features grooves cut or pressed into panels to simulate board siding. While not as prestigious as solid wood, T1-11 performs well when properly maintained.

The main vulnerability of T1-11 is delamination where moisture penetrates panel edges or damaged areas, causing layers to separate. Once delamination begins, the panel typically requires replacement rather than repair.

Painting T1-11 requires sealing all edges and paying special attention to panel seams where moisture can penetrate. The grooved surface holds paint well but uses more material than smooth surfaces.

Inspection and Assessment of Wood Siding

Thorough inspection before beginning work prevents surprises and helps you plan repairs accurately.

Identifying wood rot

Common failure points include windowsills, door thresholds, fascia boards, and the bottom edges of siding boards. These areas experience the most moisture exposure and show rot first. In Bay Area homes, north-facing walls and areas under eaves without gutters are particularly vulnerable.

The screwdriver test quickly identifies soft wood indicating rot. Press a screwdriver firmly into suspect areas. Solid wood resists penetration; rotted wood feels soft and may allow the screwdriver to sink in. Test systematically around all vulnerable areas.

Visual signs include paint bubbling, wood discoloration, soft or spongy areas, and wood that appears darker or water-stained. Sometimes rot is hidden under intact paint, making physical testing necessary in addition to visual inspection.

Bay Area moisture patterns create predictable rot locations. North walls receive less sun and dry more slowly. Areas where landscaping touches siding retain moisture. Locations with poor drainage or missing gutters experience constant wetting.

Checking for insect damage

Carpenter bee holes appear as perfectly round 1/2-inch diameter openings, usually in fascia boards, eaves, and railings. These bees excavate galleries inside wood for nests. Active holes show fresh wood dust. While carpenter bees don't consume wood like termites, their tunnels weaken structural members.

Termite damage is unfortunately common in Bay Area wood siding. Look for mud tubes on foundations, hollow-sounding wood, and wood that crumbles when probed. Termites consume wood from inside, often leaving a thin shell that looks intact from outside. Professional termite inspection is wise before painting if you suspect damage.

Wood-boring beetle evidence includes small exit holes and fine sawdust. Various beetle species attack different wood types. While less common than termite damage, beetle infestation requires treatment before painting.

Evaluating existing paint condition

Alligatoring describes interconnected cracks creating a scaly pattern. This indicates very old paint that has lost flexibility and adhesion. Alligatored paint must be removed completely before repainting as it provides no stable base for new coats.

Peeling and blistering indicate adhesion failure. Paint lifts away from wood in sheets or bubbles. Common causes include moisture from behind, painting over wet or contaminated wood, or incompatible paint layers. Identify and correct underlying causes before repainting.

Chalking creates a powdery surface from UV degradation of paint binders. While some chalking is normal aging, heavy chalk must be removed before repainting. Wash chalking surfaces thoroughly or new paint won't adhere properly.

Inter-coat peeling occurs when a newer paint layer separates from older paint underneath. This happens when painting over glossy surfaces without proper preparation, or when using incompatible paint chemistries. All loose paint must be removed and edges feathered before new paint goes on.

Moisture source diagnosis

Missing or damaged caulking around windows, doors, and trim joints allows water penetration. Water enters these gaps, wets wood from behind, and causes paint failure from the inside out. All caulking should be inspected and replaced as needed.

Failed gutters or downspouts cause many wood siding problems. Overflowing gutters saturate siding. Downspouts discharging too close to walls create constant dampness. Missing gutter sections allow roof runoff to pour directly onto siding.

Landscaping touching siding holds moisture against wood. Soil, mulch, or plants contacting siding creates constant dampness that promotes rot and paint failure. Maintain minimum 6-inch clearance between siding and ground contact, 12 inches is better.

Splash-back from hard surfaces throws water onto lower siding during rain. Concrete patios, walkways, and driveways directly adjacent to homes bounce rainwater onto siding. This constant wetting accelerates paint failure and rot.

Interior moisture escaping through walls happens in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms without proper ventilation. Water vapor migrates through walls and pushes paint off from behind. Improving ventilation prevents recurring problems.

Wood Repair and Replacement

Addressing damaged wood before painting is essential for lasting results.

Repairing minor rot

Epoxy wood fillers work well for small rotted areas in otherwise sound wood. Products like Bondo Wood Filler or Abatron WoodEpox chemically harden to create durable repairs. Remove all soft wood first, creating clean edges. Prime bare wood, apply filler, let cure completely, sand smooth, and prime again.

According to manufacturer instructions for these products, repairs should extend slightly beyond damaged areas into sound wood for best adhesion. Properly applied epoxy repairs can outlast surrounding wood.

When repair becomes false economy is a judgment call. Small areas under two inches diameter usually merit repair. Larger damaged areas, or wood that's rotted significantly through its thickness, typically cost less to replace than repair. Replacing gives you sound wood and better long-term results.

Board replacement techniques

Removing damaged boards without harming adjacent ones requires careful technique. For lap siding, wedge under the damaged board to lift it, saw through in middle sections, then pry out pieces. For tongue-and-groove or shiplap, removal is more difficult and often damages adjacent boards.

Matching wood species ensures consistent appearance and performance. Cedar replacement boards on cedar siding, redwood on redwood, etc. Wood species have different grain patterns, color, and weathering characteristics that affect final appearance.

Finding or milling matching profiles can be challenging with older siding. Historic profiles may require custom milling at specialty lumber yards. Keep damaged board pieces as templates for matching profiles exactly.

Prime all six sides before installation is critical for replacement boards. Even edges and backs that won't be visible need primer to prevent moisture absorption. Wood absorbs water from all sides; leaving any surface unprimed invites rot.

Fascia and trim repair

Fascia boards along roof edges are common failure points on Bay Area homes. These boards take direct water exposure from roof runoff, especially where gutters overflow or are missing. Rot often begins at fascia before spreading to other areas.

Composite alternatives like PVC or fiber-cement trim offer rot-resistance for perpetual problem areas. While not authentic wood, these materials eliminate recurring maintenance on areas that repeatedly rot. Many homeowners choose composite for high-risk locations while keeping wood elsewhere.

Proper flashing installation prevents water from reaching wood. Drip edge, step flashing, and kick-out flashing direct water away from vulnerable areas. Adding or repairing flashing often proves more valuable than replacing boards that rot due to missing flashing.

Caulking and sealing

Remove all old failing caulk before applying new. Old caulk rarely accepts new caulk bonding to it. Scrape, dig, or cut out old material completely, creating clean surfaces for new caulk.

High-quality paintable caulk selection matters enormously. Look for caulks labeled for exterior use, paintable, and specifically formulated for wood movement. Products from DAP, GE, or Sherwin-Williams designed for siding typically perform well. Cheap caulk fails quickly and wastes your effort.

Where to caulk includes board ends at trim, vertical joints, mitered corners, window and door perimeters, trim joints, and anywhere two different materials meet. According to paint industry best practices from sources like This Old House and manufacturer guidance, proper caulking prevents 80% of moisture intrusion.

Where not to caulk is equally important. Never caulk the bottom edges of horizontal lap siding. These edges must drain water that gets behind boards. Sealing them traps moisture and guarantees rot. Also avoid caulking weep holes in brick molding or other intentional drainage features.

Addressing moisture sources

Fix gutters and extend downspouts away from the house. Clean gutters regularly, repair leaks, ensure proper pitch, and extend downspouts to discharge at least 6 feet from foundation. This single improvement prevents many wood siding problems.

Grading adjustments move water away from foundations rather than pooling against them. Clay soils common in Bay Area retain water, making proper grading especially important. Slope ground away from house at minimum 6 inches drop over first 10 feet.

Cut back landscaping that touches siding or traps moisture. Trim trees and shrubs to allow air circulation. Remove plant beds directly against walls, or at minimum maintain clearance between mulch and siding.

Install drip caps over windows and doors if missing. These simple metal flashings shed water away from vulnerable trim areas. Many older homes lack proper drip caps, leading to chronic trim rot.

Power Washing and Surface Preparation

Clean, properly prepared surfaces are essential for paint adhesion.

Proper pressure for wood siding

Maximum 1,500 PSI is recommended for most wood siding according to pressure washing equipment manufacturers and paint company guidance. Higher pressure damages wood grain, causes splintering, and can force water deep into wood structure where it takes weeks to dry.

Wash at an angle rather than perpendicular to the surface. Hold the wand at approximately 45 degrees and spray downward, never upward under board edges. Upward spray forces water behind siding.

Special care around windows and trim prevents forcing water into homes. Keep pressure low near windows and avoid spraying directly into seams around window and door frames.

Cleaning solutions

TSP (trisodium phosphate) substitutes effectively cut grease, dirt, and grime. Traditional TSP is restricted in some areas due to environmental concerns. Substitute products like TSP-PF work similarly without phosphates. Mix according to package directions and rinse thoroughly.

Mildewcide kills biological growth common on shaded north walls in wooded Lafayette, Orinda, and Moraga properties. Products specifically formulated to kill mildew and algae, or diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 3 parts water), work well. Allow 10-15 minutes contact time before rinsing.

Brightening agents restore weathered gray wood to fresh appearance if you're staining rather than painting. Oxalic acid-based wood brighteners from brands like Olympic or Flood remove gray surface oxidation, revealing fresh wood color underneath.

Drying time critical

Wood must be completely dry before priming and painting. Paint applied to damp wood traps moisture, causing blistering, peeling, and poor adhesion. According to manufacturer specifications from Benjamin Moore and Sherwin-Williams, surface moisture leads to the majority of wood siding paint failures.

Moisture meter verification provides objective measurement. Meters measuring below 15% moisture content indicate adequately dry wood. Test in multiple locations, especially thick trim boards and shaded areas that dry slowly.

Bay Area coastal fog extends dry time significantly in Richmond, El Cerrito, and other areas near the bay. Morning fog can re-dampen wood that was dry the evening before. Inland areas dry faster but still need 48-72 hours minimum after washing.

Plan 48-72 hours minimum in good weather between washing and priming. Longer is better, especially for thick boards, shaded areas, or coastal locations. Hot, dry summer weather shortens dry time; cool spring or fall weather extends it.

Scraping and sanding

Remove all loose, peeling paint before priming. Use carbide scrapers, wire brushes, and pull scrapers to remove failed paint. Any paint that lifts under scraper pressure will fail under new paint.

Feather edges between sound paint and bare wood creates smooth transitions. Scraping creates sharp edges between painted and bare areas. Sand these edges smooth so they don't show as ridges through new paint.

Sand profiles and grooves thoroughly where paint tends to build up. Shingle siding, decorative trim, and grooved surfaces need detail sanding to remove all loose material from complex profiles.

Dust removal before priming is essential. Vacuum with brush attachment, wipe with tack cloths, or blow off with compressed air. Paint doesn't adhere to dust.

Priming Wood Siding

Proper priming is the foundation of long-lasting wood siding paint jobs.

Why bare wood must be primed

Sealing wood grain prevents topcoat from absorbing unevenly into wood fibers. Unprimed wood acts like a sponge, soaking up paint and requiring many coats to achieve uniform appearance. Primer seals wood so topcoat sits on the surface.

Blocking tannins and knots prevents brown stains bleeding through topcoat. Cedar and redwood are especially prone to tannin bleed-through. Knots in all wood species release resinous saps that stain paint. Proper primer seals these in.

Providing adhesion base for topcoats is primer's fundamental purpose. Primer formulations create chemical and mechanical bonds between wood and topcoat paint that direct paint-to-wood bonding can't match.

Preventing moisture absorption protects wood structure. Primed wood sheds water rather than absorbing it, preventing rot, swelling, warping, and paint failure.

Types of primers for wood

Oil-based primers provide best stain blocking and weather resistance according to technical guidance from major manufacturers. These primers seal knots and tannins effectively, penetrate wood deeply, and create extremely durable base coats. The downside is longer dry time (typically 24 hours) and stronger odor.

Acrylic latex primers offer fast drying, good adhesion, and easier cleanup. Modern acrylic primer formulations have improved dramatically and work well for most wood siding. They dry in 2-4 hours and can be topcoated same day in good weather. However, they don't block stains as effectively as oil-based options.

Shellac-based primers like BIN or Cover Stain provide ultimate stain blocking for severe situations. These primers seal water stains, smoke damage, and stubborn knots that bleed through other primers. Shellac primers dry extremely fast (30-60 minutes) but are more expensive and have strong odor.

When to use each type depends on your specific situation. Oil-based for maximum durability and stain blocking on exterior cedar or redwood. Acrylic for convenience, fast turnaround, and most standard applications. Shellac for problem knots, water stains, or when you need to topcoat quickly.

Primer application techniques

Brush, roll, or spray depending on project size and siding type. Brushing works well for smaller areas and ensures primer works into wood grain. Rolling covers larger flat areas efficiently. Spraying is fastest for extensive projects but requires back-brushing for proper penetration.

Work primer into grain and grooves thoroughly. Don't just coat the surface; brush or roll primer into wood texture, grain patterns, and any dimensional details. This mechanical working improves adhesion and sealing.

Special attention to end grain is critical because end grain absorbs moisture readily. Board ends, cuts, and anywhere wood fibers are exposed perpendicular to surface are vulnerable areas requiring thorough primer coverage.

Board ends and fresh cuts must be primed before or immediately after installation. Exposed end grain begins absorbing atmospheric moisture instantly. Prime within 48 hours of exposure maximum.

Spot priming vs. full prime coat

Spot prime all bare wood repairs and scrape marks immediately after surface prep. Don't leave bare wood exposed any longer than necessary. Use same primer you'll use for full coat, ensuring compatibility.

Full prime coat over entire surface is recommended for best longevity even if paint remains on much of the surface. This approach ensures uniform surface, maximum adhesion, and longest possible topcoat life. According to professional painting standards, full prime coat significantly extends total paint system lifespan.

Why skipping full prime coat is false economy becomes clear when paint fails prematurely. The relatively small additional cost of primer pays back many times over in extended topcoat life. Primer costs less than paint, and proper primer can double or triple the years before repainting becomes necessary.

Timing considerations

Prime bare wood within 48 hours of exposure to prevent moisture absorption and grain raising. Fresh-cut or sanded wood begins absorbing atmospheric moisture immediately. In Bay Area coastal areas, morning fog dampens bare wood overnight.

Bay Area coastal fog can dampen bare wood overnight even during nominally dry weather. If wood feels cool or damp in morning, allow it to dry fully before priming.

Allow primer to fully dry before topcoats. Oil-based primers need 24 hours minimum. Acrylic primers dry faster but benefit from 4-6 hours even though some are labeled "2-hour recoat." Full drying ensures maximum topcoat adhesion and performance.

Paint Selection for Wood Siding

Choosing appropriate paint formulations affects both appearance and longevity.

Acrylic latex (industry standard)

Flexibility accommodates wood movement from moisture changes and temperature swings. Wood expands and contracts constantly. Flexible acrylic paint moves with wood rather than cracking.

Breathability allows moisture vapor to escape from wood structure. According to technical literature from Sherwin-Williams and Benjamin Moore, breathable paints let wood "breathe," preventing moisture from being trapped under paint film where it promotes rot.

UV resistance protects both paint color and wood structure from California's intense sun. Premium acrylic paints contain better UV inhibitors that prevent fading and chalking.

Self-priming claims by some modern paints are marketing more than reality for exterior wood. While some interior paints genuinely work without separate primer, exterior wood benefits significantly from dedicated primer products regardless of "paint and primer in one" claims.

Paint quality tiers

Premium versus mid-grade versus economy paint shows dramatic performance differences. Premium paints from major manufacturers contain higher pigment loads, better binders, more effective UV inhibitors, and superior additives. They cost 40-60% more than economy paints but often last twice as long.

Coverage rates and longevity differences justify premium paint investment. One coat of premium paint often provides better coverage and appearance than two coats of economy paint. Longevity differences of 3-5 years translate to fewer total repaint cycles over home ownership.

Bay Area sun exposure requires quality UV protection. Cheap paints fade and chalk noticeably within a few years. Premium paints maintain color and integrity significantly longer under intense California sun, especially on south and west-facing walls.

Sheen selection

Flat or matte finishes provide traditional look and hide imperfections best. The non-reflective surface doesn't highlight grain patterns, patches, or surface irregularities. Flat is standard for most wood siding applications.

Satin or low-luster offers easier cleaning and slight sheen that some homeowners prefer. This middle ground between flat and semi-gloss provides subtle reflection while still hiding most imperfections. More washable than flat.

Semi-gloss is typically reserved for trim, doors, and accents rather than main siding. The reflective finish emphasizes details and creates visual separation between siding and trim.

Stain vs. paint

Solid stain is an option for cedar siding when you want some grain to show through while providing opaque color. Solid stain looks similar to paint but shows more texture and grain pattern.

Semi-transparent stain shows significant wood grain and is appropriate for newer cedar wanting natural look with some color. These stains don't hide wood character but do offer UV protection and some weather resistance.

Paint provides best protection and coverage for most situations. Opaque paint films seal and protect wood most effectively and offer unlimited color options. For siding in poor condition or homeowners wanting solid color, paint is the right choice.

When stain makes sense is primarily on newer cedar siding when homeowners specifically want wood grain visible. Stain requires more frequent reapplication than paint but maintains natural wood character.

Application Techniques for Wood Siding

Proper application ensures even appearance and maximum performance.

Spray, brush, or roll

Spraying is most efficient for large wood siding areas. Airless sprayers apply paint quickly and work it into dimensional texture. Professional painters typically spray wood siding for speed and uniform coverage.

Back-brushing or back-rolling even when spraying ensures paint works into grain, grooves, and overlaps. Spray applies paint fast but doesn't guarantee complete coverage in complex surfaces. Following spray with brush or roller ensures no holidays (missed spots).

Brush required for detail work regardless of primary method. Cutting in around windows, doors, trim, and working into tight areas requires brush work even on sprayed projects.

Working paint into grooves and overlaps is essential on lap siding, shingle siding, and board-and-batten. Paint must seal these joints without creating excessive buildup.

Coat thickness and coverage

Two topcoats minimum over primer provides proper film build according to manufacturer specifications. First topcoat may show some primer through, especially on textured surfaces. Second coat ensures uniform color and full protection.

Thin coats are better than one heavy coat. Thick paint sags, forms curtains, and dries poorly. Multiple thin coats build proper thickness while drying and adhering correctly.

Work from top down to catch drips and ensure even coverage. Start at highest points, work downward, and blend wet edges as you go.

Maintain wet edge to avoid lap marks. Don't let sections dry before blending into adjacent wet areas. Plan your painting sequence to keep wet edges manageable.

Board-end sealing

Extra attention to board ends prevents moisture intrusion at most vulnerable points. Board ends absorb moisture readily. Multiple thin coats seal end grain better than flooding with thick paint.

Common failure point if not addressed properly. Many otherwise good paint jobs fail at board ends where inadequate sealing allows water penetration.

Caulk then paint vs. paint then caulk

Caulk before painting allows caulk to be painted over, creating seamless appearance. All visible caulk should match paint color. Painting over caulk achieves this automatically.

Touch-up caulking after paint for nail holes that appear during drying. Wood shrinks slightly as paint dries and cures. Nail holes not visible during prep sometimes appear later. Touch these up after paint dries.

Weather and timing

Ideal temperature range of 50-85°F according to most paint manufacturer specifications allows proper drying and curing. Paint applied in temperatures outside this range may not cure properly.

Avoid direct hot sun on wet paint. Paint drying too fast in intense sun can blister, lose adhesion, or show brush marks. Work in shade or indirect light when possible.

No rain in forecast for 24-48 hours after painting. Fresh paint needs time to cure before water exposure. Check weather forecasts carefully and avoid painting before rain events.

Bay Area generally offers painting-friendly weather 9 months per year. Late spring through early fall provides ideal conditions. Winter painting is possible but trickier with morning dampness and cooler temperatures.

Coastal fog considerations in Richmond, El Cerrito, and other areas near water require afternoon painting schedules. Morning fog keeps surfaces damp. Paint after fog burns off and surfaces dry completely.

Common Wood Siding Paint Failures

Understanding typical problems helps you prevent them.

Peeling paint

Causes include moisture from behind siding, poor surface preparation, or painting over wet wood. Moisture is the single most common cause. Water pushes paint off from underneath, creating peeling and blistering.

Solutions require fixing moisture sources, proper surface prep, and adequate dry time before painting. Simply repainting over peeling areas without addressing causes guarantees recurring failure.

Bay Area specific issues include poor drainage common in clay soils, missing gutters on older homes, and landscaping changes that direct water toward houses.

Blistering

Causes include moisture in wood when painted, painting in direct hot sun, or poor adhesion between paint layers. Blisters form when water vapor or air becomes trapped under paint film.

Solutions include verifying wood is fully dry before painting and working in shade or indirect light. Moisture meters and timing painting for cooler parts of day prevent most blistering.

Tannin bleed-through

Inadequate primer on knots and resinous woods like cedar and redwood allows brown tannins to bleed through topcoat. This creates brown spots that appear weeks or months after painting.

Solutions include shellac-based or oil-based stain-blocking primer on all knots and cedar or redwood siding. These primers seal tannins effectively, preventing bleed-through.

Mildew growth

Causes include moisture, shade, and organic matter. North-facing walls in wooded areas like much of Lafayette, Orinda, and Moraga are especially prone to mildew.

Solutions include proper cleaning before painting, mildew-resistant primer and paint, and addressing moisture sources. Improving drainage and trimming back overhanging vegetation helps long-term.

Inter-coat peeling

Incompatible paint systems or painting over glossy surfaces without proper sanding causes new paint to peel away from old paint underneath. The new and old layers don't bond.

Solutions include proper sanding or scuffing of glossy surfaces and using compatible paint chemistries. When in doubt, ask paint store staff about compatibility.

Maintenance to Extend Paint Life

Regular maintenance dramatically extends time between full repainting.

Annual inspection

Check caulking and replace any that has cracked, pulled away, or failed. Caulking fails gradually. Catching and replacing small sections prevents water intrusion.

Look for new rot or damage, especially in vulnerable areas like windowsills, fascia, and board bottoms. Early detection allows minor repairs before major replacement becomes necessary.

Monitor paint condition for early signs of failure. Touch up failing areas before they spread. Small touch-ups prevent larger failures.

Cleaning

Gentle annual wash with low pressure removes dirt, pollen, and organic matter before it becomes embedded in paint. Clean siding lasts longer and looks better.

Mildew treatment as needed on north walls or shaded areas prevents recurring growth. Spot treat rather than waiting for widespread problems.

Keep landscaping clear of siding. Trim shrubs and trees back from walls. Maintain clearance between soil, mulch, and wood siding.

Touch-up painting

Address failing areas before they spread. A small peeling section can be touched up easily. Ignored, it expands into major repair requiring repainting whole walls.

Keep leftover paint for touch-ups. Store paint properly (cool, dry location, tightly sealed) and it remains usable for years. Label cans with location (north wall, trim, etc.) for easy reference.

Proper touch-up technique matches existing finish. Feather edges, apply same number of coats, and avoid creating obvious patches.

Expected lifespan

Seven to twelve years is typical for quality paint job on wood siding in Bay Area climate with proper prep and materials. Variables include paint quality, color choice, sun exposure, and maintenance.

South and west exposures may need repainting sooner due to intense UV exposure that accelerates paint breakdown.

Proper prep and quality materials equal longer life. Shortcuts in surface prep, primer, or paint quality directly reduce lifespan. Investment in doing it right pays back through years of additional protection.

Why Professional Painting Makes Sense for Wood Siding

Wood siding painting is complex work requiring multiple skills and significant time investment.

Complexity of wood repairs

Carpentry skills are required for board replacement, trim repair, and structural work. Painting contractors who specialize in wood siding also possess carpentry skills to properly repair substrate.

Identifying rot versus cosmetic damage requires experience. What looks like minor damage often reveals extensive rot once investigation begins. Experienced contractors recognize warning signs and assess realistically.

Proper flashing and moisture barrier installation prevents recurring problems. Understanding building science and water management separates adequate repairs from excellent ones.

Equipment and safety

Scaffolding and ladders for two-story homes represent significant investment and safety risk for occasional use. Professional contractors have appropriate equipment and training for safe work at height.

Professional spray equipment provides superior results compared to rental units. Commercial-grade airless sprayers deliver consistent pressure and pattern for uniform coverage.

Safety gear and training prevent accidents. Working at height, handling chemicals, and operating equipment safely requires training and experience.

Time commitment

Weeks of weekends for average homeowner versus days for professional crew makes hiring out attractive for busy Bay Area residents. Time-value calculations often favor hiring professionals.

Project management including ordering materials, scheduling around weather, and coordinating prep and painting phases is included when you hire professionals.

Warranty and expertise

Professional workmanship guarantees protect your investment. Reputable painting contractors warrant their work and fix problems without additional charge.

Insurance coverage for accidents including property damage and worker injuries protects homeowners. Uninsured contractors or DIY accidents can be extremely expensive.

Experience with Bay Area specific issues including local wood types, climate patterns, and common failure modes comes from years of local work.

At Lamorinda Painting, we've specialized in wood siding restoration and painting for over 20 years. Our experience with Lafayette, Orinda, and Moraga homes means we understand the specific challenges local climate and housing types present. We're fully licensed and insured, and we guarantee high-quality results with attention to detail and spotless cleanup.

Conclusion

Wood siding requires thorough repair, proper priming, and quality paint application for lasting results. Shortcuts at any stage reduce lifespan and lead to premature failure. Moisture management is absolutely critical; addressing water sources and ensuring complete drying before painting prevents most wood siding paint problems.

Bay Area climate is generally favorable for wood siding with mild temperatures and limited freeze-thaw cycles. However, specific considerations including coastal fog, intense inland sun, and localized moisture from landscaping require attention.

Professional approach ensures lasting results through experience, proper equipment, and comprehensive warranties. The investment in professional painting typically pays back through extended lifespan and avoided problems.

We provide high-quality wood siding painting throughout Lafayette, Orinda, Moraga, and the entire East Bay. Our attention to detail, proper preparation techniques, and use of premium materials ensure your wood siding looks beautiful and remains protected for years to come. Contact Lamorinda Painting today for a free estimate on your wood siding painting project.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does wood siding paint last?

Quality paint on properly prepared wood siding typically lasts 7-12 years in Bay Area climate. Variables affecting lifespan include paint quality, surface preparation thoroughness, sun exposure, and ongoing maintenance. Premium paint can last 10-12 years with good prep and maintenance. Economy paint may need replacement in 5-7 years. South and west-facing walls exposed to intense sun wear faster than north-facing walls. Proper annual maintenance extends lifespan significantly.

Can I paint over stained wood siding?

Yes, but proper preparation is essential. Clean stained wood thoroughly, lightly sand to create tooth for paint adhesion, and use high-quality primer before painting. Solid stain can often be painted over more easily than semi-transparent stain. Oil-based stains may require special primers for proper adhesion. The key is creating clean, properly prepared surface for primer and paint to bond to.

What causes wood siding to rot?

Moisture is the sole cause of wood rot. Water comes from failed gutters, poor drainage, landscaping touching siding, failed caulking, or moisture migrating from inside homes. Wood that remains wet for extended periods develops fungal rot. Preventing rot requires eliminating moisture sources, ensuring proper drainage, maintaining caulking, and keeping wood surfaces sealed with paint or stain.

How much does wood siding painting cost?

Bay Area wood siding painting typically costs $3.00-$6.00 per square foot depending on condition, repair needs, access difficulty, and paint quality. A typical 2,000 square foot home might range $6,000-$12,000 for complete exterior including repairs, primer, and two topcoats. Homes needing extensive repair or board replacement cost more. Get detailed written estimates specifying exactly what's included.

Should I replace or repair damaged boards?

Replace boards with rot extending more than halfway through thickness, multiple damaged boards in a row, or when repair costs approach replacement costs. Repair smaller damaged areas, isolated spots of minor rot, or cosmetic damage that hasn't compromised structural integrity. Replacement gives you sound wood and better long-term results. Repair works for minor damage when done properly with quality epoxy fillers.

Can I use latex paint over old oil paint?

Yes, modern latex paints adhere well to old oil paint with proper preparation. Sand glossy oil paint to create tooth, clean thoroughly, and prime with quality bonding primer. The primer creates bridge between incompatible chemistries. Never apply oil paint over latex as adhesion problems are likely. Always prep properly regardless of going latex over oil.

What's the best time of year to paint wood siding?

Late spring through early fall offers best conditions in Bay Area. Target temperatures between 50-85°F, low humidity, and dry weather forecast. Avoid rainy season (November through March) when possible. Summer can work but avoid painting in direct intense sun. Morning fog in coastal areas means afternoon painting schedules work better. Ideal conditions are dry, mild temperatures, and indirect sun.